If you're looking for a day away from the Cinque Terre crowds, without leaving this stretch of the Ligurian coast behind, Camogli, San Fruttuoso and Portofino make one of the most rewarding day trips in the region.
Camogli
Start the day in Camogli, one of the most beautiful villages on this coast, and one of our own favourites in all of Liguria. It's a proper working harbour: colourful fishing boats, tall pastel houses stacked against the cliff, a long seafront promenade, and the Castello della Dragonara perched on the little rocky island by the sea. Locals call it the "City of a Thousand White Sailing Ships."
Getting to San Fruttuoso
From Camogli, San Fruttuoso is reachable by boat, a short and scenic crossing, or on foot via San Rocco and the hamlet of San Nicolò di Capodimonte.
Walking time: around 3 hours from Camogli
From the Church of San Rocco, follow the downhill path towards Punta Chiappa. Along the way you'll reach San Nicolò di Capodimonte, a church abandoned by monks in 1440 and later used as a fishermen's shelter until it was restored and reopened in 1870. From there, the path continues towards San Fruttuoso, reaching the Abbey after about another hour. The walk can be shortened by taking a short boat crossing to Punta Chiappa and continuing on foot from there.
San Fruttuoso Abbey
San Fruttuoso is dominated by its Abbey, dating back to around the 10th century, and the Doria tower overlooking the handful of fishermen's houses and the small beach below, where you can swim and find fresh seafood in season.
Legend has it that the site was revealed in a dream to the Bishop of San Fruttuoso, martyred in Spain, and to five monks who, after wandering the Ligurian coast, recognised the place and built the Abbey there. The first historical record of the monastery dates back to the 10th century. It later passed to the Benedictines, who expanded it, then to the Doria family. In 1983, the Doria Pamphili family donated the whole site to FAI, the Italian environmental fund, which restored it completely.
Abbey opening hours, 2026:
- January, February, November, December: daily except non-holiday Mondays, 10am–3:45pm
- March and October: daily, 10am–3:45pm
- April, May, and the second half of September: daily, 10am–4:45pm
- June to the first half of September: daily, 10am–5:45pm
Last admission is 45 minutes before closing. Hours can change with sea conditions, since the Abbey's opening depends partly on the boat service from Camogli, it's worth checking directly with FAI before your visit.
The Christ of the Abyss
A few hundred metres from the Abbey, resting on the seabed, stands a bronze statue of Christ with arms raised, placed there in 1954 at the initiative of Duilio Marcante, a pioneering figure of Italian diving, in memory of those lost at sea and those who devoted their lives to it. It has since become a symbol for divers worldwide and one of the most famous dive sites on the planet.
Every year, around the end of August, a ceremony is held in the small bay in memory of all those called from the sea: a blessing of the waters, a torchlit procession, divers laying a wreath at the statue, and Mass celebrated on the shore. To let everyone see the statue, even when the sea is rough, a copy was placed in the chapel of the Church of San Fruttuoso in 1974.
From San Fruttuoso to Portofino
From San Fruttuoso, you can reach Portofino by boat, one of the loveliest short crossings along this coast, or on foot.
The path climbs from the beach up to the monastery of Capodimonte, then continues to "La Cheta," where helicopters occasionally land, switchbacking through Mediterranean scrub to a spot known as "Base 0," then down towards the Case di Prato. From there, a paved path marked with two circles and a red square leads to the Chapel of St Sebastian and down into Portofino's small harbour.
Portofino
A classic Ligurian fishing village, with pastel houses arranged in a semicircle around the famous Piazzetta, Portofino has also become one of the most exclusive destinations in the world, drawing visitors who come for the same views once reserved for fishermen and now shared with yachts moored in the harbour. The Church of St George and the Castello Brown are both worth the visit.
Our founder Silvia wrote about a quieter, out-of-season day in Portofino on Silvia's Trips, worth reading if you'd rather see it without the summer crowds.
Getting there from Levanto
The easiest way from Levanto is by train, changing along the Genoa line, or by car, with parking near the train station in Camogli. Camogli itself is one of Silvia's favourite villages in all of Liguria, worth slowing down for before continuing on. From there, take the boat across to San Fruttuoso, or, if you're feeling more energetic, the walking trail via San Rocco instead.
FAQ
How do I get to Camogli from Levanto?
By train, changing along the Genoa line, or by car, with parking available near Camogli's train station.
Do I need to book San Fruttuoso Abbey in advance?
Booking isn't strictly required, but it's worth checking opening hours before you go, since they depend partly on sea conditions and the boat service from Camogli.
Can I walk all the way from Camogli to San Fruttuoso?
Yes, it's about 3 hours on foot via San Rocco and San Nicolò di Capodimonte. You can also shorten the walk by taking a short boat crossing to Punta Chiappa.
What is the Christ of the Abyss?
A bronze underwater statue near San Fruttuoso, placed in 1954 in memory of those lost at sea. It's one of the most famous dive sites in the world, with an annual commemoration held around the end of August.
Further reading:
- Silvia's day in Portofino, out of season: https://silvias-trips.com/visiting-portofino/
- San Fruttuoso Abbey, official FAI page: https://fondoambiente.it/luoghi/abbazia-di-san-fruttuoso/visita
